If you’re looking to hike Pen y Fan in the Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons) National Park but want to avoid the crowds at the Storey Arms and Pont ar Daf car park then the Horseshoe Ridge Walk might be what you’re looking for.
This stunning circular trail offers one of the most scenic – and peaceful – ways to summit Pen y Fan, the highest peak in South Wales. Starting from Neuadd car park, it follows a dramatic ridgeline that takes in Corn Du, Pen y Fan, Cribyn and Fan y Big, with sweeping views across the national park.
Why choose the Horseshoe Ridge Route?
More challenging than the standard route, the Horseshoe Ridge Walk rewards you with a real sense of adventure: fewer people, more space, and breath-taking panoramas from start to finish. It’s ideal for walkers who want to experience the beauty of the Beacons in a more tranquil and immersive way.
We walked it on a sunny August day with friends and Humphrey the spaniel. It provided plenty of opportunities for good chat, stunning views and memorable moments.
Route overview
There are several variations of the walk but we based our walk on the National Trust walk and OS route. We have included some options to shorten/lengthen the walk below.
Car park: Neuadd Reservoir car park, WHAT3WORDS ///desire.wiring.cuddling
Distance: 10 miles/16km
Difficulty: Challenging, with some steep sections and long steady stretches
Drive time from The Roost Merthyr Tydfil: 30 minutes
To reach the car park: drive north from Merthyr Tydfil, past Pontsticill, and along the west side of Pontsticill Reservoir. When the road bends sharply right, go straight on to the narrow access lane signposted ‘Cronfa ddŵr y Neuadd Reservoir 2’. You’ll soon arrive in a stunning glacial valley, surrounded by dramatic ridges — a perfect place to begin your adventure.
Starting the walk towards Pen y Fan
Walk start/end point: WHAT3WORDS ///refills.exulted.robot
From the top of the car park, take the track and turn left onto a small road. After a short flat section, you’ll reach the old reservoir pumphouse. Then its up on a steep but clear path on the left that climbs up to the Graig Fan Ddu ridge.
Once on the ridge, most of the hard work is behind you – and you’ll be rewarded with striking escarpment views all the way to Corn Du and the iconic Pen y Fan.
Enjoy the views — on a clear day you can see the Sugarloaf and The Skirrid in the Black Mountains.
Climbing Pen y Fan via Corn Du
As you continue along Graig Fan Ddu, you’ll pass minor summits and descend slightly into the Bwlch Duwynt (Windy Pass), where the route joins the main path from Storey Arms.
Here you can:
- Skip Corn Du and head straight to Pen y Fan (886m) via the right-hand path, or
- Fork left to summit Corn Du (873m), topped with a Bronze Age burial cairn, before continuing east to Pen y Fan.
From the summit of Pen y Fan, the panoramic views are spectacular. You may see as far as Cadair Idris, the Black Mountains, and the Bristol Channel.
Continuing the Loop: from Pen y Fan to Cribyn and Fan y Big
From Pen y Fan, descend southeast along Craig Cwm Sere toward Cribyn. At the saddle, choose to:
- Climb Cribyn (795m) via a steep ascent and follow the Cambrian Way
- Bypass Cribyn by following the Beacons Way
Both paths lead to Bwlch ar y Fan, a scenic saddle connecting ancient trails like the Old Roman Road (Gap Road).
At this point, you can:
- Continue to Fan y Big, the final summit of the horseshoe
- Or head south directly along the Old Roman Road back to the car park
If you summit Fan y Big, return via Craig Cwmoergwm and pick up the path that reconnects with the Old Roman Road for your final descent.
What to bring
This is a long and exposed route, so bring:
- Plenty of water, food and snacks
- Sturdy boots, layers, waterproofs, and sun protection
- A map (digital or paper) and a power bank if using your phone
Be AdventureSmart: safety first
While the route is straightforward in good weather, the ridge is very exposed, and mountain conditions can change quickly. Always check the forecast and ensure you’re well-equipped before heading out. Visit AdventureSmart UK for tips on staying safe in the outdoors.
This isn’t a dangerous hike, but it does require good fitness, proper footwear, and some preparation — the rewards are well worth it.
Pre and post walk refreshments
The Old Barn Tea Room for sandwiches, tea, cream tea and Welsh cakes.
The Red Cow Inn at Pontsticill for something a little stronger and big pub food!
Base yourselves at The Roost Merthyr Tydfil
The Roost Merthyr Tydfil is just 30 minutes away and makes the perfect base for your Pen y Fan adventure. Enjoy big comfy beds, hot showers, and a warm welcome — plus a drying room, and dog-friendly cabins. Don’t just take our word for it — with over 600 reviews averaging 4.9/5, our guests seem to agree! We’re also proudly accredited by Visit Wales as a Walkers’ Welcome site.
